A number of plant oils used in cosmetics for years contain only small amounts of valuable from dermatological point of view fatty acids, although their usefulness is beyond discussion. The classical example yet is cold-pressed olive oil, in which the high content of precious unsaponifiable fraction (i.e. squalene) prevails over not very advantageous for skin effect of oleic acid.

Cosmetic activity of non-glyceride fractions of oils was the subject of the thorough studies. Except for the studies over the influence of these substances on moisturization, oiliness and skin elasticity, also specific activity in reference to particular elements of skin structure was measured. In vitro studies carried out in various scientific centres exhibited the impact of isolated unsaponifiable fractions (obtained from i.e. soybean oil, avocado oil and cocoa butter) on human fibroblasts proliferation. Moreover, intensification of collagen synthesis was also proved.

However, it was not fund out, which ingredients of the unsaponifiable fractions exhibited such activity; in vivo effects was not studied either. The situation within the studies on antiradical and UV protection looks similar – for many unsaponifiable fractions , the protective activity was confirmed, but the efficacies of particular compounds were not the subjects of studies. What is more, the compounds were not even identified. There is certainly many synergisms within the range of protective activity as well as the influence of skin structures, which make that the unsaponifiable fractions as mixtures of biologically active substances will remain the inexhaustible source of cosmetic raw materials for many years.